Elise Øverland
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, June 10, 2010
By Matthew Schneier
"My Resort is specific—I have my vacation places," Elise Øverland explained in her studio. And in turn, those places—India in particular—explained her point of reference: the chic air hostess uniforms Pierre Cardin designed for Pakistan's PIA airline in the late sixties. Ergo, gauzy silks and hooded caftans in neutral desert tones. Maybe it's the cover-up culture of the subcontinent that informed the longer lengths and looser drapes—a few floor-grazing maxi skirts, poncho wraps, and jackets with oversize lapels—still, the collection felt fresh. "I don't feel like wearing short things anymore," Øverland said. "I don't feel powerful in them." Those who do will find tiny shorts and miniskirts and a selection of the fitted leather pieces she's known for, like a shaved-leather jacket thin enough to be balled up and tossed in a suitcase. But it was the collection's softer notes that made the most impact. Has the rocker stylist given up her edge? Ah, no—there's the kickass high-necked parka, which looked borrowed from the boys.
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Resort 2011
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
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Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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