June 09, 2010 New York
"My Resort is specific—I have my vacation places," Elise Øverland explained in her studio. And in turn, those places—India in particular—explained her point of reference: the chic air hostess uniforms Pierre Cardin designed for Pakistan's PIA airline in the late sixties. Ergo, gauzy silks and hooded caftans in neutral desert tones. Maybe it's the cover-up culture of the subcontinent that informed the longer lengths and looser drapes—a few floor-grazing maxi skirts, poncho wraps, and jackets with oversize lapels—still, the collection felt fresh. "I don't feel like wearing short things anymore," Øverland said. "I don't feel powerful in them." Those who do will find tiny shorts and miniskirts and a selection of the fitted leather pieces she's known for, like a shaved-leather jacket thin enough to be balled up and tossed in a suitcase. But it was the collection's softer notes that made the most impact. Has the rocker stylist given up her edge? Ah, no—there's the kickass high-necked parka, which looked borrowed from the boys.