A Helmut Lang collection sans leggings, leather or otherwise? "It's been a big part of our business for several seasons," Michael Colovos, one half of the design team along with wife Nicole, acknowledged at his showroom. "But we felt this season called for a looser, lighter silhouette." To that end, the duo paired flared trousers with relaxed white washed- cotton shirts and roomy beige loose-knit sweaters. They also turned out plenty of creative takes on the classic menswear-inspired suit jacket, including one with pleating standing in for a collar and another with a gauzy scarf "lapel."

And for those still coveting skinny legs and a tough-chic look, fear not—their denim collection featured extra-slim jeans worn with a faded denim and black leather biker jacket.