Julien Macdonald
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, July 12, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Julien Macdonald was quick to point out that his 35-piece collection wasn't resort or cruise; it was a "Christmas flash," which gave it a certain climactic specificity. Baby, it's getting colder outside, so Macdonald made knitwear to throw over his party frocks. For skin not yet kissed by holiday sun, he kept his colors on the dark and—it must be said—dreary side, with dusty, washed-out jewel tones. Even the white of a classically draped cocktail dress had an aged chalkiness. Macdonald lives on Portobello Road, and his vintage finds from the market there had a big influence on pieces that at times had a thirties languor, a twenties flapper quality, and something even earlier, with tattered lace and faded ruffles that could have come from Miss Havisham's closet.The aggressive sexiness that characterized the designer's work in the past was absent, though his emphasis on bias cutting made even the most prosaic-looking piece snake sinuously around the body. Where Macdonald's Christmas really flashed was in his knitwear. Again, all of it had a worn, deliberately snagged look, but there was a slouchy appeal to the sweater dresses. One was essentially a man's polo-neck jumper with corset-laced shoulders; another a cardigan, also corset-laced. Too gothic for seasonal cheer, but sly and sexy just the same.
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Resort 2011
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Anna Sui Antonio Berardi -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
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Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Jensen Philosophy Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
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Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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