Antonio Marras' Sardinian passion guarantees that his own collections are intense affairs, but it looks like he's having fun with his second gig at Kenzo
, especially with the new Resort collection. It's a big anniversary year for the label, and Marras looked back to Kenzo Takada's earliest work almost four decades ago, when the Japanese designer was busy injecting color and spirit into the uptight Parisian fashion scene. He reworked floral foulard prints from the archives and borrowed one of Kenzo's first shapes—a shirtdress based on a kimono. That silhouette also cropped up again as a trench, and there were shades of old Japan in obi belts. But what Marras really caught beautifully was Kenzo's exuberance. The mixes of stripes and checks, the floor-sweeping sundresses, the colorful knitwear, and those spectacular summery florals made for a winning update on one of fashion's most uplifting legacies.