Isaac Mizrahi has gingham on the brain, but don't blame it on his recent debut as a theater director with Sondheim's A Little Night Music, set in a Swedish country house. "For me, a gingham is like a solid with a lot of personality," the designer said at his showroom. "I use it all the time."

Today's effort—Mizrahi coined it "A Whiff of Spring"—was certainly sweet, but it wasn't overly saccharine. Clusters of silver and black crystal polka dots decorated silk faille gowns. French sailor stripes were reinterpreted as strips of elastic running across a tulle slipdress. And the vintage-inspired prints on a pair of Watteau floral gowns were manipulated so as to resemble Xeroxed copies of flowers. As for that gingham? A demure pink bow-backed frock drew the most murmurs of approval from the crowd on hand, but a little clutch was equally enchanting.