Rue du Mail
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, June 18, 2010
By Tim Blanks
Rue du Mail's Martine Sitbon will never stop listening to My Bloody Valentine, and she'll never stop designing clothes for girls like the girl she used to be, the kind who would wear a lean white tux jacket and imagine herself as Anita Pallenberg with a Stone of her own. But time has passed, and that ruffle Sitbon sewed around the hem of her party dress looked a little mumsy. The designer's Resort collection was strongest when it was at its toughest, when Sitbon was thinking about her woman as a pioneer, rather than a party girl.Years ago, she was the first with the parka. This time, she offered a multi-pocketed piece she called a reporter's jacket, rather than a safari. "She's an intellectual girl," Sitbon said. Military shorts and a trench cropped into a jacket fitted into that story. At the other extreme, there were more of those droopy ruffles and bows in the designer's favorite crepe. Mercifully, there was also a print of carnivorous flowers to add some bite.
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Resort 2011
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Anna Sui Antonio Berardi -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
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Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Jensen Philosophy Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
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Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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