Rue du Mail's Martine Sitbon will never stop listening to My Bloody Valentine, and she'll never stop designing clothes for girls like the girl she used to be, the kind who would wear a lean white tux jacket and imagine herself as Anita Pallenberg with a Stone of her own. But time has passed, and that ruffle Sitbon sewed around the hem of her party dress looked a little mumsy. The designer's Resort collection was strongest when it was at its toughest, when Sitbon was thinking about her woman as a pioneer, rather than a party girl.

Years ago, she was the first with the parka. This time, she offered a multi-pocketed piece she called a reporter's jacket, rather than a safari. "She's an intellectual girl," Sitbon said. Military shorts and a trench cropped into a jacket fitted into that story. At the other extreme, there were more of those droopy ruffles and bows in the designer's favorite crepe. Mercifully, there was also a print of carnivorous flowers to add some bite.