Vionnet
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, June 23, 2010
By Tim Blanks
In her time, Madeleine Vionnet was such an arch-modernist that her innovations haunt fashion to this very day, which means Rodolfo Paglialunga faces a peculiar challenge in making Vionnet more contemporary. For Resort, he cleverly took a sporty route, showing tank dresses, T-shirt dresses, and a parka shape with a swallowtail that spoke more of Now than Then. With a form as simple as two circles sewn together and elasticized at the waist, Paglialunga created a silhouette that had the ease of a caftan or a kimono, especially in washed linen as soft as an old sheet. There was, in fact, something very Japanese about that geometry, though it also referenced Vionnet's own manipulation of the square in her work. An ingenious dress whose sleeves folded back for a capelike effect invited movement, perhaps even some kind of interpretive dance. It wasn't hard to imagine Paglialunga's other frocks having just such a result on actress fans like Carey Mulligan, Rachel McAdams, and Marion Cotillard, especially as shown in a shift of dégradé sequins. Too bad Paglialunga's color scheme of browns, beiges, and blue-gray was so dour and un-partylike. The accompanying costume jewelry of ropes and chains, which looked like something found on the beach, was actually much more glamorous than it sounds.
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Resort 2011
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Anna Sui Antonio Berardi -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
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Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Jensen Philosophy Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
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Temperley London Thakoon The Row Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese TSE -
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United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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