Yves Saint Laurent
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, June 3, 2010
By Nicole Phelps
Is Stefano Pilati lightening up? The Yves Saint Laurent Resort collection he showed in New York today was a much less sober affair than his last ready-to-wear outing, and very welcome for it. The presentation took place in the tony Upper East Side environs of the French Consulate, a fitting setting for a collection that felt thoroughly Gallic in spirit. Picking up a theme from his Fall runway but interpreting it differently here, the designer turned the pendant silhouettes he made from old YSL images into bold floral prints, splashing them down the side of a nipped-waist silk dress or across the front of a slim above-the-knee skirt worn with a delicate blouse.The clothes, not unlike those he showed in March, hinted at the seventies, with high-waist trouser suits for day, and for evening, a white and black bandeau paired with a floor-scraping black skirt. This time around, though, he injected vibrant shades of coral, lilac, and fuchsia (quintessential Saint Laurent colors), along with darling butterfly and clover prints for little shirtwaist frocks and flared jumpsuits, and witty stacked-heel espadrille sandals.
"Always within myself there's the big debate—how can you avoid references but at the same time be respectful," Pilati said, looking dapper and relaxed in an open-necked shirt and red neckerchief with a violet in his lapel. In the case of Resort's sexy smoking jacket worn with bloomer shorts, sheer hose, and gold crystal-studded heels, he embraced the YSL legacy but added his own of-the-moment twist. It was the show's big hit.
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Resort 2011
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Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alice + Olivia Anna Sui Antonio Berardi -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
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Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hanii Y Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Juan Carlos Obando Julien Macdonald Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marchesa Marc Jacobs Marni Matthew Williamson Max Azria MaxMara Michael Angel Michael Kors Milly Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Peter Jensen Philosophy Ports 1961 Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rag & Bone Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Stella McCartney Suno -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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