January 12, 2012 Milan
The thing that united all these disparate women tonight was a collection of clothes that could be construed as an escape into a silvery lunar landscape as viewed by F. Scott Fitzgerald (even if, in reality, he was too busy swigging gin with dissolute flappers to ever go off-planet). "Jazz Age" was one of Ferretti's touchstones for both collections. With yet another version of The Great Gatsby upon us, that seemed like a timely reference. It was quite literal in the first pre-fall section of the show, with cloche hats and cocooning coats creating a twenties silhouette, and elongated plissé chiffons offering a languid take on cocktail dressing (which is, in itself, a Jazz Age notion). The fur lapels and sleeves on a long black coat cried out for a Stutz Bearcat. Ferretti piled on black paillettes for her pre-fall finale, but she swathed them in chunky knits that felt about as modern as you're ever going to make a Liza Minnelli moment.
And then came her platoon of It girls in the silvery, gilded demi-couture. You could feel Ferretti's heart in these clothes: a fox collar on a gray flannel coat-dress; beaded, banded chinchilla over a silvery lace confection; lacquered Fortuny pleating trailing away in a fishtail. They were the sort of looks that make a certain kind of young woman dream of being a fashion designer. And, in their moonstruck dreaminess, they might be the sort of clothes that would inspire a certain kind of young woman to buy and wear them.