January 23, 2012 New York
Albino D'Amato's fascination with architecture is carrying over to pre-fall, and after a Spring season full of unexpected volumes and couture-inspired shapes, the designer's sculptural silhouettes have somewhat of a renewed relevance. The peplum tops, rounded cocoon coats, and wide belts here hit on current trends while showing off his knack for sharp tailoring. D'Amato tends to draw a grown-up crowd with sumptuous fox accents, richly hued fabrics, and forgiving silhouettes, but the label is reportedly taking aim at a younger clientele. Detachable colored fur collars and a flirty yet smart skirt with a cascade in front are the kinds of pieces a twentysomething would consider swiping from her cool mom's closet. Still, if he truly wants to win over more mademoiselles than mesdames, he's going to need to think more outside the box.
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