D'Amato's fascination with architecture is carrying over to pre-fall, and after a Spring season full of unexpected volumes and couture-inspired shapes, the designer's sculptural silhouettes have somewhat of a renewed relevance. The peplum tops, rounded cocoon coats, and wide belts here hit on current trends while showing off his knack for sharp tailoring. D'Amato tends to draw a grown-up crowd with sumptuous fox accents, richly hued fabrics, and forgiving silhouettes, but the label is reportedly taking aim at a younger clientele. Detachable colored fur collars and a flirty yet smart skirt with a cascade in front are the kinds of pieces a twentysomething would consider swiping from her cool mom's closet. Still, if he truly wants to win over more mademoiselles
, he's going to need to think more outside the box.