January 08, 2012 New York
Guillaume Henry went back to the 1960's for pre-fall, specifically the era before prêt-à-porter was born. It was a time when Parisian women old and young wore the same polished, couture-inspired clothes, the only things setting daughters apart from mothers being undone coiffures and extra-thick cat-eye liner. Three years into his tenure at Carven, the sixties have become Henry's decade, so the A-line silhouettes and short hemlines here looked familiar. With other designers revisiting the mod look, his creations also felt timely. His fans will fall for the extra-thick cable-knit turtlenecks, all the coats but especially the black satin princess style, and the match-y skirtsuits. Accessories like plastic tortoiseshell pumps and miniature round shoulder bags had charm, too. If anything, the bad-girl element of previous collections went missing, but it's a good bet we'll be seeing it back on the runway in March.
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