Chloé
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, January 9, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Chloé's creative director, Clare Waight Keller, is only on her second collection for the house, but she's working with a steady hand. For pre-fall, she looked to the photos of Garry Winogrand, whose candid shots of Manhattanites on the avenues in the sixties are proto-street-style shots if there ever were any. But unlike the ultra-practiced subjects of today's street-style brigade, their predecessors dressed with a certain spontaneity. "A mishmash," Waight Keller called it, and she appropriated it for the line.The designer spoke of catching the moment when the sixties, with its prints and graphicism, shaded into the lounge-y, flowy seventies—classic Chloé, in other words, with fluid dresses picking up Spring's pleat motif. She drove home the hither-and-thither point with proportions that ebbed and flowed: billowing, pleated trousers with matching shrunken jackets and cropped sweaters, cocooning coats with floppy, rolled-up sleeves over skintight pants. That giant coat might be overwhelming to some, but Waight Keller insisted on its ease. "It's like a cardigan," she said. Whether you'll see it on the streets or not, you surely will find it in fashion editorial pages. Chloé's salespeople, on the other hand, will swoon for her reversible shearling teddy (shown, cleverly, and in a typical Waight Keller move, over a matching gilet for a trompe l'oeil effect). It married mishmash to polish.
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Pre-Fall 2012
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.L.C. Acne Akris Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Andrew Gn Anne Valérie Hash Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Azzaro -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui BCBG Max Azria Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Carven Celine Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cushnie et Ochs -
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Damir Doma Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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J. Mendel J.W. Anderson Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Just Cavalli -
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Kelly Wearstler Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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M.Patmos Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Marni Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Milly Missoni Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Opening Ceremony Oscar de la Renta -
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Pedro Lourenço Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rachel Zoe Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roksanda Ilincic -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney -
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T by Alexander Wang Temperley London Ter et Bantine Thakoon Thakoon Addition The Row Theyskens' Theory Tibi Tracy Reese Tribune Standard TSE -
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Valentino Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo







