Scott Schuman's street-style shots from Pitti Uomo inspired Derek Lam's pre-fall collection. "Especially the photographs of the Japanese guys," the designer said. "They always look so amazingly put together." Lam's collections always have a tailoring element, but it was a stronger focus here, starting from the ground up: His shiny gold oxfords with clever elevated heels look like a hit. Another good idea: Savile Row-sharp blazers in a menswear plaid and a shade he called Florentine green both came with removable mink collars. And denim, a constant for the label, was spliced into thin ribbons, woven into a jacquard, and cut into a sexy sleeveless sheath.

But it wasn't all boys' stuff. For contrast, Lam also zeroed in on lingerie, showing silk charmeuse slip gowns. The highlight for evening, though, was a more dressed-down floor-length halter dress in a red and white bandanna print.