Good girl gone bad. That's how Dan and Dean Caten described their latest lineup for Dsquared²
. But if you remember the label's Spring runway show, complete with theatrical Heineken bottle breaking and Glastonbury-esque mud stomping, pre-fall seems squeaky clean by comparison. So maybe the Dsquared² vixen was sent off to a reformatory prep school—she's got the argyle sweaters, tweed separates, and toggle coat now to prove it—but she's still the type to sneak out for a cigarette break. While there will always be sexy party dresses in Dsquared²'s collections (see model Barbara Palvin working a curve-hugging mini with lasercut details in slide 13 for proof), a refreshing sense of restraint and, dare we say it, a newfound conservatism informed a few of the looks here. You could picture Mad Men
's Joan Holloway going from a day of work to a swinging party in the Catens' cobalt blue sheath with its high neckline and low, sash-tied back.