Diane von Furstenberg named her pre-fall lineup Macadam Diva—macadam being the French word for asphalt. The notion lent parts of the collection a harder-than-usual look, not exactly punk per se but toughened up with studding, chains, snaps, and zips. No safety pins though, as her right-hand man Yvan Mispelaere was quick to point out. People-pleasing is a big part of the DVF MO, so alongside those edgier elements, there were enough eye-opening prints for all of the designer's demographics, including an oversize chain-link motif that riffed on von Furstenberg's groundbreaking 1970's wrap dresses.

With Mispelaere in the picture, surprising, even offbeat color combos have become a regular occurrence here. Today's best-looking pairing was an icy blue tuxedo-bib sleeveless silk blouse and a tomato red wrap skirt; at the presentation, the model carried a leopard-print bag. The collection's deceptively expensive-looking, couturelike touches (including the delicate pleating on that blouse) are something that team DVF is particularly proud of. A coat and skirt in matching black pleather basketweave certainly was an unusual sight at the brand's Meatpacking District headquarters, but it wasn't an unwelcome one.