Diane von Furstenberg
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, December 15, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Diane von Furstenberg named her pre-fall lineup Macadam Diva—macadam being the French word for asphalt. The notion lent parts of the collection a harder-than-usual look, not exactly punk per se but toughened up with studding, chains, snaps, and zips. No safety pins though, as her right-hand man Yvan Mispelaere was quick to point out. People-pleasing is a big part of the DVF MO, so alongside those edgier elements, there were enough eye-opening prints for all of the designer's demographics, including an oversize chain-link motif that riffed on von Furstenberg's groundbreaking 1970's wrap dresses.With Mispelaere in the picture, surprising, even offbeat color combos have become a regular occurrence here. Today's best-looking pairing was an icy blue tuxedo-bib sleeveless silk blouse and a tomato red wrap skirt; at the presentation, the model carried a leopard-print bag. The collection's deceptively expensive-looking, couturelike touches (including the delicate pleating on that blouse) are something that team DVF is particularly proud of. A coat and skirt in matching black pleather basketweave certainly was an unusual sight at the brand's Meatpacking District headquarters, but it wasn't an unwelcome one.
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.L.C. Acne Akris Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Andrew Gn Anne Valérie Hash Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Azzaro -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui BCBG Max Azria Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Carven Celine Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cushnie et Ochs -
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Damir Doma Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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J. Mendel J.W. Anderson Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Just Cavalli -
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Kelly Wearstler Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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M.Patmos Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Marni Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Milly Missoni Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Rachel Roy Rachel Zoe Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roksanda Ilincic -
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