Other designers are taking a "buy now, wear now" approach to pre-fall, but not Giorgio Armani. His Emporio collection, with its dark tones and richly textured fabrics, seems squarely aimed at the woman who buys her winter coat in June. There was an interesting one on offer here, in a loopy sapphire blue yarn that could've been shearling.

Mostly, though, the Emporio offerings centered on wear-to-work separates. Just don't call them basics. A Lurex-shot double-breasted knit jacket and polka-dotted gray wool trousers are anything but. The lineup's other focus was cocktail attire. A mauve pink velvet dress was beaded with crystals below its drop waist, and an LBD shimmied with jet fringe. That puts him in line with designers who riffed on the Jazz Age on their Spring runways, but where some of those dresses looked like costumes, the Armani touch was as subtle as ever.