Francesco Scognamiglio
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 19, 2012
By Matthew Schneier
Francesco Scognamiglio may have looked to the ruins of Pompeii—"my hometown, my city," he called it—to create the prints he used in his latest pre-fall collection, but the driving inspiration for the new line, he said, was "American woman." American woman circa Dynasty, to be specific. The silhouettes did have the bigger-the-better shoulders and cinched-in waists favored in the eighties, albeit with a more elegant, European spin. (Scognamiglio said he was looking to the tailoring of Azzedine Alaïa, too.) With the dramatic proportions and his usual parade of see-through lace on display, this was Scognamiglio at his most baroque. But the emphasis on evening had a very good reason: It's what his clients demand. The designer reported that red-carpet requests are coming in faster than ever, and Madonna has just worn a pair of his flared trousers on the cover of Bazaar. "All of my clients, fortunately or unfortunately, are stars," he said with a shrug. A small professional hazard of making clothes that make any woman feel like one.
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Pre-Fall 2012
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.L.C. Acne Akris Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Andrew Gn Anne Valérie Hash Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Azzaro -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui BCBG Max Azria Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Carven Celine Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cushnie et Ochs -
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Damir Doma Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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J. Mendel J.W. Anderson Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Just Cavalli -
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Kelly Wearstler Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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M.Patmos Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Marni Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Milly Missoni Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Opening Ceremony Oscar de la Renta -
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Pedro Lourenço Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rachel Zoe Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roksanda Ilincic -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney -
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Valentino Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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