Givenchy
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, January 9, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
To talk about Givenchy's pre-fall collection, you have to start with the footwear. After seasons of ankle boots, Riccardo Tisci's knee-high boots with heel-covering sheaths are automatic silhouette changers (not to mention instant collector's items), adding a cool edge to pencil skirts, shirtdresses, and jodhpur-style pants.Tisci said he was thinking about the 1950's silhouettes of Bettie Page (already familiar to fans of his Spring 2011 collection), as well as 1970's French horseback riding. The Givenchy woman, he explained, "wants a strong look for pre-fall; it's no different than the runway collections." The strongest looks here had to be the jackets. Showing off some of the construction techniques he's picked up during his four years designing menswear, they came with black chiffon insets at the sides that revealed the real camelhair fabric underneath used to keep the jackets' shapes. Menswear wasn't the only element he mined for ideas, though. Curvy polo dresses were pieced together from seven years of prints, and his Spring 2012 iridescent paillettes became another print on a sweatshirt fabric sheath. When your brand is as hot as Givenchy is, recycling pays dividends. Still, Tisci keeps innovating; his killer new boots are proof of that.
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Pre-Fall 2012
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui BCBG Max Azria Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Carven Celine Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cushnie et Ochs -
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Damir Doma Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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