Jonathan Saunders
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, January 13, 2012
By
Jonathan Saunders name-checked Charlotte Perriand at his pre-fall appointment not 24 hours after Julie de Libran did so at Louis Vuitton. For a designer like Saunders, who's known for his prints, the graphic nature of Perriand's furniture designs, interiors, and architecture, as well as her flare for texture, are seriously inspiring. Weave patterns borrowed from her oeuvre were enlarged and printed on dresses with a slightly sixties shape. Elsewhere, wallpaper prints decorated silk separates and sweaters were knit in oversize checks or basketweave designs. The warm, rich palette set the collection apart from the icy Miami pastels of Spring, as did a new development in the form of simpler "entry-level" price point dresses. Saunders excels at the special-occasion (or make that just "special") frock, but now he's getting serious about creating pieces for his clients' everyday lives. Waffle-weave knit sweaters and dresses were another smart step in that direction.
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