January 04, 2012 New York
Molto Italiano does America. There, in a nutshell, was Just Cavalli's pre-fall collection. The label will never give up its go-go glamorous leanings, of course; here they were just mixed with America old (as in Native American patterns) and slightly less old (the stars and stripes, which got splayed, in an inky print, on pants and a denim moto jacket). The Cavalli team seems to be looking with fresh eyes at JC since its recent switch in manufacturers, and this collection had less of the fringe-trailing, fur-bedecked buccaneer garb the master is famous for, a few collars and a lace-up shearling vest notwithstanding. Rather than drawing on house standards, there were concessions to recent trends: not only the American motifs but also scarf prints, printed pants, and something you'd not imagine seeing chez Cavalli, a basic leather T-shirt dress. Longtime fans need not worry, though. Plenty of the collection's short cuts and tight fits will be more than enough to remind them where they are.
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