No. 21
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, January 12, 2012
By Tim Blanks
The word bourgeois has cropped up a lot this season. But its stolid middle-class connotations scarcely applied to Alessandro Dell'Acqua's interpretation of the term in his collection for No. 21. He's always leaned toward the idea of behind-closed-doors naughtiness, the notion that the people who are wound up tightest are also the ones who are really going to let go. Beneath the camel coat beats a heart of darkness.Dell'Acqua gave his take on Italian perviness added juice this season by stirring in some English country house frolics. The micro-check vest, the hunting rig, the twinset with a pencil skirt, the man-sized pants…they were borrowed from the designer's vision of the Queen on a weekend toot. But Dell'Acqua's charms as a designer lie much more with his edgy hybrids, seen here in the felt coat with the black bomber sleeves, the cabled cardigan with the paillette sleeves, and the conservative coat with the faux sleeve of jet beading slyly poking out. The most slyly suggestive of all was the top that was all pure white cardigan from the front and bad-girl sheer camisole from the back.
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.L.C. Acne Akris Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Andrew Gn Anne Valérie Hash Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Azzaro -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui BCBG Max Azria Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Carven Celine Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cushnie et Ochs -
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Damir Doma Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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J. Mendel J.W. Anderson Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Just Cavalli -
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Kelly Wearstler Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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M.Patmos Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Marni Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Milly Missoni Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Opening Ceremony Oscar de la Renta -
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Pedro Lourenço Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Wayne -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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