January 08, 2012 New York
Gurung's starting point this season was India—not the "obvious India" that designers tend to think of, but "the muddy India, the ruins," he said, speaking from experience. "It can be harsh, really, but it's still beautiful." Accordingly, the glitz factor was near zero. He relied on a kaleidoscope print for his dresses and separates rather than the glitzy embroideries he's sometimes been known for. The palette was just as focused; in addition to black and white, he zeroed in on emerald green and a subtle, earthy pink. At the time of our appointment, a silk cocktail dress in the former was already in the possession of a famous red-carpet-bound actress the name of whom Gurung wouldn't reveal. Like we said, upswing.