After a Spring show that received mixed reviews—critics applauded his ambition but questioned the wearability/price ratio—Pedro Lourenço spent some time identifying exactly what constitutes his young brand's DNA. Here's what he came up with: classics with a surprise. That doesn't necessarily jibe with what he put on his recent Paris runway, but it pretty well sums up the Resort collection currently enjoying a very strong sell-through at Barneys, and it's a good description of his pre-fall outing, too.
At 21, Lourenco is already a masterful technician; there's a precision to his shifts, blazers, and double-waistband pants that seems almost mathematical. The aforementioned twist came through this season via prints and embellishments, both inspired by Patagonia. Photorealistic images of glaciers and mountains were inset onto the front of sleeveless shells and dresses, and dégradé shades of blue and peach, as if the colors were almost frostbitten, were used for minimal jackets and coats. As for the fur that decorated a leather shirt, it's not fur at all but mohair yarn treated to look like the real thing. Retailers will approve of the wearability/price ratio of that.
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