Pedro Lourenço
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, January 10, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
After a Spring show that received mixed reviews—critics applauded his ambition but questioned the wearability/price ratio—Pedro Lourenço spent some time identifying exactly what constitutes his young brand's DNA. Here's what he came up with: classics with a surprise. That doesn't necessarily jibe with what he put on his recent Paris runway, but it pretty well sums up the Resort collection currently enjoying a very strong sell-through at Barneys, and it's a good description of his pre-fall outing, too.At 21, Lourenco is already a masterful technician; there's a precision to his shifts, blazers, and double-waistband pants that seems almost mathematical. The aforementioned twist came through this season via prints and embellishments, both inspired by Patagonia. Photorealistic images of glaciers and mountains were inset onto the front of sleeveless shells and dresses, and dégradé shades of blue and peach, as if the colors were almost frostbitten, were used for minimal jackets and coats. As for the fur that decorated a leather shirt, it's not fur at all but mohair yarn treated to look like the real thing. Retailers will approve of the wearability/price ratio of that.
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Pre-Fall 2012
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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A.L.C. Acne Akris Alberta Ferretti Albino Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Andrew Gn Anne Valérie Hash Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Azzaro -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui BCBG Max Azria Bottega Veneta Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carlos Miele Carolina Herrera Carven Celine Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cushnie et Ochs -
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Damir Doma Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gabriele Colangelo Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Giulietta Givenchy Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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J. Mendel J.W. Anderson Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Just Cavalli -
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Kelly Wearstler Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton -
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M.Patmos Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Marni Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Milly Missoni Monique Lhuillier Moschino Moschino Cheap And Chic -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 -
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Opening Ceremony Oscar de la Renta -
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Pedro Lourenço Peter Som Philosophy Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rachel Roy Rachel Zoe Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roksanda Ilincic -
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Valentino Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Wayne -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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