Reed Krakoff
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, December 6, 2011
By Nicole Phelps
Reed Krakoff is two days shy of a party celebrating a new limited-edition clutch; the little bag will be available exclusively at his Madison Avenue store in 15 different colors of exotic ayer skin. Since launching his signature label just over two years ago, Krakoff (who is also the president and executive creative director of Coach) has done everything big, but if he wasn't thinking small for pre-fall, he was definitely thinking targeted, and that made it his strongest outing yet. The color palette was narrowly defined; he used mostly vibrant green, cameo pink, and cordovan brown, along with black and white; and he was focused, as well, in terms of silhouettes, many of them familiar from past runway shows.The chain-mail motif you've seen him use before turned up both as embroidery on a sleeveless shift with volume at the back and as a print on chiffon blouses, while his baseball T-shirt was reimagined as a white wool dress with long black leather sleeves and as a color-blocked ponyhair coat. The idea of uniforms, Krakoff explained, was something he came back to again and again this season. We imagine there will be many a woman out there who'd like to make a collarless coat pieced together from gray felt, deep green leather, and painted python her uniform next year. Same goes for a ribbed cashmere crewneck with leather arm patches.
Accessories, no surprise, were a big story. Krakoff experimented with a bladelike heel that will make his pointy-toed python and crocodile skin ankle boots stand out, and his contribution to the frame bag trend looked best in glossy cordovan.
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