December 05, 2011 New York
The chain-mail motif you've seen him use before turned up both as embroidery on a sleeveless shift with volume at the back and as a print on chiffon blouses, while his baseball T-shirt was reimagined as a white wool dress with long black leather sleeves and as a color-blocked ponyhair coat. The idea of uniforms, Krakoff explained, was something he came back to again and again this season. We imagine there will be many a woman out there who'd like to make a collarless coat pieced together from gray felt, deep green leather, and painted python her uniform next year. Same goes for a ribbed cashmere crewneck with leather arm patches.
Accessories, no surprise, were a big story. Krakoff experimented with a bladelike heel that will make his pointy-toed python and crocodile skin ankle boots stand out, and his contribution to the frame bag trend looked best in glossy cordovan.