"My goal was to propose a complete wardrobe," Marco Zanini said. His pre-fall collection for Rochas
was product-driven, playing on the house themes of luxe and excess but keeping pieces easy and salable. There was no shortage of dresses, knits, and coats for customers replenishing their wardrobes, but lavish fabrics from France's Bucol studio helped things look fresh. A dark, inky new print evoked watercolor and tie dye in equal measure, and the usual dose of gilt came courtesy of gold-foil brocade cloque, pieced into knits. The news here was skin: a swing jacket, a three-quarter-length coat, and an A-line skirt mark Zanini's first foray into leather. (Fur is never used at Rochas, though Zanini aped it with a tufted mohair chubby.) Tulle also made a new appearance. Sourced from France's famous Hurel, it dressed up a larger evening section than Rochas has offered for pre-seasons past. "The tulle pieces are feminine and utterly 'French,' " Zanini explained. "They pay homage to the guipure invented by Marcel Rochas."