Private Benjamin, report to the atelier. For Addition, his secondary collection, Thakoon Panichgul sent his girl into the trenches. "A flirty, cheeky military," he called it. With his pastel camouflages (some abstracted from floral prints), there's no chance of blending in, but for fashion's rank and file, that's rarely the point anyway.

For pre-fall, the designer put his usual little dresses—the best of them, a sleeveless silk shirtdress in pink and red camo with a drawstring waist—and swingy coats on full display. Uniform details like oversize cargo pockets and sparrow tails brought feminine pieces like A-line skirts and cropped jackets into the army world. As with his main collection, Thakoon played with volume, though here he really let the billows fly. A maxi-length romper had legs so wide even his showroom model mistook it for a dress. Likely to be standard issue when the Man Repeller inevitably assembles her militia.