Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri remember the eighties as a time of innocent glamour. And for pre-fall, they set out to re-create that spirit. "We believe in desire," Chiuri said. "In this moment, when everything is so hard—especially in Italy—it's important to give a good dream." And who hasn't dreamed of dancing with Bianca and Mick at Studio 54? The new Valentino collection includes riffs on Mrs. Jagger's famous white tuxedo and the poofy party dresses associated with the era when that nightclub reigned, but the designers—as is their practice—used a light touch. Miniature bows by the hundreds were embroidered on the net bodice of a minidress and delicate lace was inset in chevrons on the top of a long black velvet gown.

The designers have made fine dressmaking their calling card since settling in at Valentino several years ago. This season finds them focused on tailoring. In addition to a couple of smart nods in the direction of Valentino Garavani's 1960's tailleurs and the aforementioned tuxedo, their high-waisted, tapering trousers looked fresh with slip-on loafers. A strapless red jumpsuit decorated with a single rose is destined for the red carpet; we see it on Emma Stone at the SAG Awards on the 29th.