Vionnet
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, January 23, 2012
By Nicole Phelps
Madeleine Vionnet introduced the bias-cut dress to the world, and in the process helped liberate women from corsets. So it makes sense to see a pair of forward-looking young sisters at the helm of the revived house. Since being picked to replace Rodolfo Paglialunga, Barbara and Lucia Croce have been studying Vionnet's groundbreaking oeuvre, and for their debut at the label, selected a few of her signatures to reinvent.The rectangle dress—a simple swatch of crepe draped and stitched to a smaller back panel—has a modern allure that belies its decades-old origins. Same goes for Vionnet's trademark Grecian gathering and draping, which looked particularly fresh here on an evening top with an asymmetric train that trailed behind one leg of a pair of tapering pants.
Accessories and jewelry are also in these designers' purview. The twins put their sensible, chic stamp on shoes with substantial heels that are low enough to do some serious stomping around in. Smart.
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