January 05, 2012 New York
Yigal Azrouël has gotten good at nailing the details. More than some designers, he plays on his themes and variations, trusting in subtler touches to set seasons apart, like the frills that snaked around the curves of the hip. At the house of Azrouël, there'll always be accents in leather. There'll always be womenswear that borrows from menswear, usually a paper-bag waist or two, blocks of color layered on color. And here they all were for pre-fall. Dresses hit a little lower beneath the knee than in seasons previous and flowed more vertiginously between structure and fluidity. Stiffer fabrics like pinstriped wool and tweed gave his separates more heft. But the real change here was the increased emphasis Azrouël placed on the luxe. He used cashmere more than ever before and also experimented with vests in ombré Finnish raccoon and fox.
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