Disco, at Akris? Albert Kriemler looked to Studio 54 for Resort, a well-trod reference point if ever there was one, and somewhat unlikely for a brand that prides itself on its elegance and refinement. If a black-and-white photo print of the jam-packed club erred on the literal side, it came across surprisingly subtly on a sleeveless sheath—chalk that up to the designer's sure hand. Kriemler's cutting and draping skills were also in evidence on a sleek one-shoulder jersey gown of the sort Bianca Jagger once rocked; it was a head turner in vivid azure blue.

Otherwise the seventies vibe was just that, a suggestion rather than a full-on commitment. A linen pantsuit was full-legged and boxy silk tops slouched off shoulders. As for another pantsuit in a striking black and silver jacquard, it pointed to the modern accomplishments of Akris' St. Gallen, Switzerland, fabric mills. Chance are good that it'll be the collection's big hit.