Altuzarra
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, June 13, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
After the grunge-fest that was Fall '11, it was a surprise to find Joseph Altuzarra in a sweeter mood for Resort. Still, despite the slight tonal shift, the loose and louche direction the designer explored last season was very much alive and well. "I wanted to keep working on the casualness of Fall," he said at a showroom presentation today. Altuzarra ticked off the south of France—particularly Saint-Tropez—and Brigitte Bardot as inspirations. It amounted to trading one acknowledged master (that'd be Marc Jacobs, whose spirit, for better or worse, hovers over all those who revisit grunge) for another (Yves Saint Laurent, patron saint of la Côte d'Azur).If the new looks lacked some of the bracing surprise of the label's Fall offering, they also testified to the flexibility of Altuzarra's vision and his talent. There was plenty to like in this lighter, breezier collection. Lace-up tunics and shirtdresses—some with blocked leather panels—recalled vintage YSL. Eyelets (which, as a motif, are bewitching plenty of designers at the moment) added lightness to corseted dresses, cropped tops, and even sinuous flared trousers. They were also cleverly integrated into lightweight knit sweaters and deployed as a print on cotton poplin baby-doll frocks.
Altuzarra brought the vintage feel up to the present by showing many of the looks with white low-top sneakers, made with his longtime collaborator Gianvito Rossi. And he revisited some of his newly minted house standards, too, for fun (and, no doubt, for profit). The parkas that thrilled the crowds for Fall are back in new, lighter-weight iterations: a throw-and-go cotton and a ghostly, translucent accent piece in shimmering white organza.
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Resort 2012
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
A.L.C. Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Andrew Gn Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Azzaro -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bibhu Mohapatra Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
C
-
D
Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ -
J
J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Joseph Juan Carlos Obando Just Cavalli -
K
Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz -
L
Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
P
Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rachel Zoe Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roksanda Ilincic -
S
Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Steven Alan Suno -
T
T by Alexander Wang Temperley London Ter et Bantine Thakoon Thakoon Addition The Row Theyskens' Theory Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese Tribune Standard TSE Twenty8Twelve -
U
United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
W
Willow -
Y
Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
