June 12, 2011 New York
If the new looks lacked some of the bracing surprise of the label's Fall offering, they also testified to the flexibility of Altuzarra's vision and his talent. There was plenty to like in this lighter, breezier collection. Lace-up tunics and shirtdresses—some with blocked leather panels—recalled vintage YSL. Eyelets (which, as a motif, are bewitching plenty of designers at the moment) added lightness to corseted dresses, cropped tops, and even sinuous flared trousers. They were also cleverly integrated into lightweight knit sweaters and deployed as a print on cotton poplin baby-doll frocks.
Altuzarra brought the vintage feel up to the present by showing many of the looks with white low-top sneakers, made with his longtime collaborator Gianvito Rossi. And he revisited some of his newly minted house standards, too, for fun (and, no doubt, for profit). The parkas that thrilled the crowds for Fall are back in new, lighter-weight iterations: a throw-and-go cotton and a ghostly, translucent accent piece in shimmering white organza.