June 06, 2011 New York
Bibhu Mohapatra is well aware of the expectations that retailers and customers place on him as an eveningwear guy, but he refuses to be pigeonholed. He was keen to point out that daytime offerings made up 18 of the 24 looks in his first collection for Resort. The designer took his cues from vintage postcards from the French Riviera in the 1950's, so many of the outfits were styled with short white gloves and fedoras. If you're looking to push separates, a well-done trenchcoat is key, and Mohapatra showed a great short-sleeved version with what looked like a capelet built in. Other looks intended for before cocktail hour failed to make as much of an impact, although there were a few notable menswear-inspired pieces, like a perfectly cut blazer and white trousers with a classic fit and a crocheted, zigzag detail at the waist. Fortunately for Mohapatra's fans, the designer delivered as usual on pretty frocks and gala gowns. A fuchsia-colored shift with a single draped shoulder was meant to look like a sari, and would be perfect for date night. And a bone-colored chiffon gown that had a crocheted lace overlay with a high, molded neckline was simply stunning.
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