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Costume National

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NEW YORK, June 15, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
Bikers, rockabilly chicks, and kilts made up the curious mix of influences Ennio Capasa channeled for Resort. The result provided a new answer to the old question about what's black, white, and red all over. It's a Costume National collection. (In this case, one with a few too many moto jacket details.)

Capasa's experiments with lipstick red had echoes of Spring '11, which was all about minimal shapes in eye-popping tones. The graphicism here was new, though: Digital prints of Prince of Wales, houndstooth, and checkerboard appeared on short shifts, silk blouses, pleated kilt skirts, and cropped cigarette pants. But the best parts of the collection weren't printed or bright. They were from the small series of blush pink tailored pieces that reminded you of Costume's heyday as the go-to label for a sharp suit. The shade softened them a bit from their edgy former glory, and they looked fresh again. Look closely and you'd notice the technique and craft that goes into them. You could see it, too, in cropped tuxedo jackets that had been heat-bonded. Capasa instructed his fabricators to leave a little note of evidence of the iron: a slight, almost imperceptible burn mark around the pockets.

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