Graeme Armour
post a comment ›
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, June 29, 2011
By Maya Singer
You can learn a lot from a T-shirt. London-based designer Graeme Armour, for instance, has been fêted in the press and gotten plenty of look-sees from key retailers for his sharply gothic clothes, but it wasn't until he made a range of jersey pieces—initially exclusive to Japan—that he found himself with a sales hit on his hands. This season, as he debuts his first Resort collection, Armour is integrating the jerseys into his mainline. Moreover, he seems to have internalized the lesson of their success, dedicating himself to making clothes that are forthrightly more accessible and wearable than they have been until now."Wearable" and "accessible" typically read as euphemisms for "boring," but not in Armour's case. To wit, check out his sheer mesh pocket tee, a more subtle thing than it looks. The shoulders are oversized and rounded—a signature of this collection—and the sleeves are cut open, so they flutter around. Those kinds of construction details matter; they make a simple piece distinctive. Same goes for the sweatshirt-shaped tops with sly sheer inserts and draped jersey dresses with a come-hither opening at the hip. Armour is very good at sexy; he knows how to be tasteful about it. Here, his most vixenish pieces, like a cropped halter top in micro-pleated viscose, fused easily with more androgynous looks, such as a pair of cuffed silk trousers in blackwatch plaid, or a boxy black and white plaid shirt with leather collar and trim. There was a bit more color than usual, thanks to those checks, and a bit more playfulness, which is welcome. Armour is on the right track.
COMMENTS
(0) ADD YOURSwelcome !
logout
you must be logged in to leave a comment sign in | join now
see all designers ›
Resort 2012
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
10 Crosby Derek Lam 3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
A.L.C. Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Andrew Gn Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Azzaro -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bibhu Mohapatra Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
C
-
D
Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
G
Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
H
Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
I
Iceberg Imitation of Christ -
J
J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Joseph Juan Carlos Obando Just Cavalli -
K
Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz -
L
Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller Nina Ricci No. 21 Norma Kamali -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta -
P
Pedro Lourenço Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Philosophy Piazza Sempione Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rachel Zoe Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roksanda Ilincic -
S
Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Steven Alan Suno -
T
T by Alexander Wang Temperley London Ter et Bantine Thakoon Thakoon Addition The Row Theyskens' Theory Tibi Tory Burch Tracy Reese Tribune Standard TSE Twenty8Twelve -
U
United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
W
Willow -
Y
Yigal Azrouël Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
ERROR:
