"Everyone else can own the day. I'll own the night," laughed Juan Carlos Obando
at his Resort appointment. Sure enough, no sportswear here. This season, Obando was thinking of Josephine Baker for his collection of cocktail attire. Not the famous banana skirt that jazzed Miuccia Prada for Spring; rather, the way that Baker made sexy seem sophisticated—even when she was wearing nothing but the fruit from the bowl. Less and more faced off in this mostly-maxi collection. Obando pointed out that many of his dresses comprise a great amount of fabric—up to 18 yards, linings included. Standing still, they can look positively modest. But just wait till they move. ("Before, women wanted to sit down at parties," Obando said. "Now they want to dance.") Those same dresses are slit up to there and down to here, revealing acres of thigh, back, chest, and even arm. When they work, they play a very Baker-esque game of peekaboo. But—and here's what may turn out to be the rub—they're sure not for the shy.