Marc by Marc Jacobs Resort 2012 Collection on Style.com: Runway Review

Marc by Marc Jacobs

NEW YORK, June 7, 2011

By Matthew Schneier

The whole season of Resort, in theory at least, is about the young and the cute making like snowbirds—that is, skipping town and hitting the beach. Plenty of houses disregard the vacation impulse. Not Marc by Marc Jacobs. The idea of a chic city slicker heading for Miami provided the inspiration. But December (resort time, naturally) is also when Art Basel turns the town into a sophisticated urban playground. That allowed the MMJ team to whip up a collection that was frothy but also urbane. You had to smile at hothouse florals three ways—"day floral," "beach floral," and "evening floral." Like a heliotropic bloom, this label's girl changes color and shape by the hour. And why not? At this price point, she can afford an outfit change.

Unlike seasons past, full looks were emphasized, rather than separates: lipstick red shorts with matching zippered tops in Clark twill, pajama suits (an emerging must-have), romper dresses, and for the chilly evenings, a knit dress paneled in black leather. (Black leather? Well, you can take the girl out of New York…) The old Marc codes were all in effect, including polka dots (in print and paillettes on a single dress) and bows. And as with many other collections we've seen so far for Resort, the team here emphasized the waist. Dainty bows and thin chartreuse belts offered a welcome squeeze of sweet and sour.

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A.L.C.	Acne	ADAM
Akris	Alberta Ferretti	Alexander McQueen
Alexander Wang	Alexandre Herchcovitch	Alice + Olivia
Altuzarra	Andrew Gn	Anna Sui
Antonio Berardi	Antonio Marras	Azzaro

Badgley Mischka	Balenciaga	Bally
Balmain	Band of Outsiders	Barbara Bui
Barbara Tfank	BCBG Max Azria	Behnaz Sarafpour
Bibhu Mohapatra	Bottega Veneta	Brioni
Burberry Prorsum

Cacharel	Calvin Klein Collection	Carlos Miele
Carolina Herrera	Carven	Celine
Chado Ralph Rucci	Chanel	Chloé
Chloë Sevigny for O.C.	Chris Benz	Christian Dior
Christopher Kane	Collette Dinnigan	Costume National
Cushnie et Ochs	Cynthia Rowley

Daryl K	Derek Lam	Diane von Furstenberg
Diesel Black Gold	DKNY	Donna Karan
Doo.Ri	Douglas Hannant	Dsquared²

Elie Saab	Elie Tahari	Emanuel Ungaro
Emilio Pucci	Emporio Armani	Erdem
Erin Fetherston