The whole season of Resort, in theory at least, is about the young and the cute making like snowbirds—that is, skipping town and hitting the beach. Plenty of houses disregard the vacation impulse. Not Marc by Marc Jacobs. The idea of a chic city slicker heading for Miami provided the inspiration. But December (resort time, naturally) is also when Art Basel turns the town into a sophisticated urban playground. That allowed the MMJ team to whip up a collection that was frothy but also urbane. You had to smile at hothouse florals three ways—"day floral," "beach floral," and "evening floral." Like a heliotropic bloom, this label's girl changes color and shape by the hour. And why not? At this price point, she can afford an outfit change.

Unlike seasons past, full looks were emphasized, rather than separates: lipstick red shorts with matching zippered tops in Clark twill, pajama suits (an emerging must-have), romper dresses, and for the chilly evenings, a knit dress paneled in black leather. (Black leather? Well, you can take the girl out of New York…) The old Marc codes were all in effect, including polka dots (in print and paillettes on a single dress) and bows. And as with many other collections we've seen so far for Resort, the team here emphasized the waist. Dainty bows and thin chartreuse belts offered a welcome squeeze of sweet and sour.