June 16, 2011 New York
While walking around Fort Greene, Brooklyn, earlier this year, Marcia Patmos stumbled upon a book about the rise of Jamaican dancehall culture in the late seventies. She was taken with the rusts and cognacs in the photographs and decided to use those colors as a jumping-off point for the palette of her second M.Patmos collection. As she often does, the designer mixed high-tech with hand-crafted methods on her signature sweaters. Strips of interwoven leather (done in Bolivia) added volume to the shoulders of a boat-neck pullover, while an asymmetrical tank and maxi skirt in merino wool were made on a cutting-edge Japanese loom that wastes no fabric. The best stuff in this lineup, however, happened when the designer stepped out of her knitwear comfort zone. Seriously cool black cigarette pants came with allover leather sequins, and a sizable stole made from silver fox fur not only boasted convenient pockets, but also looked like a short-sleeved jacket when cinched with a belt. Hopefully, Patmos will continue to take similar steps forward in future collections.
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