June 12, 2011 New York
Copping opened with a pink suit, the skirt pencil-slim and the jacket matador-short. The signature lingerie details (zigzag stitching, elastic band waist) were in full effect; this is a designer fully in command of his house's codes. And he's familiar enough with midcentury designs to know that they weren't necessarily liberating, so he's cut an hourglass dress in a stretchy printed linen and added a little bit of extra room to the bodice of a strapless cocktail number so his girl can eat on her night on the town, not just sip. Copping also kept things modern by balancing the collection's candy colors with neutrals; a taupe blouse and violet tweed skirt combo looked particularly fresh. Another clever idea: the bright bikinis that he showed as underpinnings to daywear. We'd like to give a special shout-out to the fabulous fifties-ish pumps with Perspex heels that revealed the nails holding them together within. We don't think the French have a word for sick, as in "so perversely good they're sick," but that's exactly what they were.