June 10, 2011 London
There was still the odd outbreak of skewed girlishness in Jensen's Resort collection—the short shorts, the little A-line mini, the curious two-dimensional, almost folkloric quality—and his unique color palette prevailed. (As he says, there couldn't be many other designers who do as well with shades like mustard and a blue he calls "Korean Air" after the uniforms of that airline's hostesses.) But otherwise, this was Jensen's most polished, refined collection to date. What stood out was structure: a trim cotton canvas pantsuit in a fantastic architectural print based on photos of houses in Palm Springs, a close-fitting safari jacket with zipped pockets, equally neat trenchcoats, a below-the-knee cocktail dress in basketweave linen over a black tulle petticoat. Add in the capri pants, the ruffled blouses, and the waxed cotton cape that is practically a signature piece, and you had a collection that put Jensen at the forefront of a trend we could label the New Prim, Resort's emerging appetite—in London, at least—for decorum. Mind you, Jensen's always had that in him, but this season, he elevated it to a height of sophistication that photographer Tim Gutt admirably captured in the accompanying lookbook. Gaze upon Iekeliene Stange's blonde beauty and muse, "Meryl, you were never lovelier."