Richard Nicoll
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, June 8, 2011
By Tim Blanks
In the past, Richard Nicoll has been pretty pragmatic about his Resort collection. It was a chance to revisit his best sellers. In other words, commerce trumped creativity. But the pre-collection's march to mega-market share has clearly given Nicoll a reason to rethink. This time round, he sounded revved up.With good reason. The looks Nicoll showed spanned both his signature kink (i.e., the "invisible suit," a jacket and pencil skirt in sheer nude jersey, paired with a porno pink camisole) and an airy, fairy feeling (see the pintucked oversize smock dress in virginal white georgette, with a hem of a hundred hankies).
The handkerchief hem was carried over from Fall, but here it had a gypsy flair that was a little bit Stevie Nicks. Nicoll couldn't really put his finger on why he felt a West Coast undertow in the collection. Maybe it was the Nicks-y floatiness, maybe the fact he was keenly anticipating his first-ever trip to L.A. next week. Whatever, there was a hint of Hollywood in the silvery jacquard that anchored the collection. When Nicoll cut it into a strapless bustier attached to a swirling cornflower blue dance skirt, it felt easy and upbeat. But sculpted into a saucy little rah-rah dress, the same fabric took on the sheen of sin.
That's what Nicoll is really good at, the part of his work where he turns his technique to crafting something he relishes as "wrong." Here, it was wrongest in the sheer jersey pieces whose strict construction was emphasized by pink or white-piped seams. The designer has also found a dream collaborator in cult artist Linder Sterling. Her surreal, twisted collages provided a welcome graphic jolt.
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Resort 2012
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A.L.C. Acne ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Alexander Wang Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice + Olivia Altuzarra Andrew Gn Anna Sui Antonio Berardi Antonio Marras Azzaro -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Bally Balmain Band of Outsiders Barbara Bui Barbara Tfank BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bibhu Mohapatra Bottega Veneta Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Armour Gregory Parkinson Gucci -
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Helmut Lang Hervé Léger by Max Azria -
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Iceberg Imitation of Christ -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Joseph Juan Carlos Obando Just Cavalli -
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Kenzo Kevork Kiledjian Kimberly Ovitz -
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Lanvin Lela Rose Louis Vuitton Luca Luca -
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Rachel Comey Rachel Roy Rachel Zoe Rag & Bone Rebecca Minkoff Rebecca Taylor Reed Krakoff Reem Acra Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Roberto Cavalli Rochas Roksanda Ilincic -
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Sachin + Babi Salvatore Ferragamo Sonia Rykiel Sophie Theallet Sportmax St. John Stella McCartney Steven Alan Suno -
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Valentino Vera Wang Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet VPL -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo Z Spoke by Zac Posen
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