June 05, 2011 New York
The folk motifs came courtesy of embroidery on bib-front little cotton dresses and flared kick skirts. A berry red print on a summery white jumpsuit and matching blazer echoed embroidery, too. Piecework dresses in mixed cottons were feather-light, using mixed fabrics and blocks of rich colors like lemon to smartly emphasize the curves of the torso.
Panichgul also played with roses, a signature motif for him ever since his heralded collaboration with Laurie Simmons back in Spring '09. That flower in particular can be an overwrought little metaphor, but Thakoon sapped the saccharine by rendering his in graphic black and white. He sprayed them in print over trim pants and tunic tops, and embroidered them crawling up day dresses.