TSE
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REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, May 27, 2011
By Matthew Schneier
There's a magpie quality to the inspirations TSE channels season after season: first the Shakers, then Pierre Cardin, and now, for Resort, Frank Lloyd Wright and the Cubist painter Sonia Delaunay. A random flip through the encyclopedia might give you a similar list, but there's method to the knit madness. "It's all dealing with shapes," designer Dushane Noble explained, "with a future way of thinking."Knitting and futurism aren't easy bedfellows; still, there's much that's interesting about the label's push forward. The TSE store, you can be sure, will always have your basic (and essential) cashmere sweater. But soon it will also stock cardigans in gassed cotton, its nubby fibers burnt off to give it a subtle luster ("it reads almost as silk," Noble says). Alongside, there will be Fair Isle turtlenecks with the Fair Isle motif reversed for an abstract, sketchy pattern somewhere between a Wright drawing and a snatch of Morse code. For every push Noble administers, there's a pull lurking, too. His skirts and knit dresses are nipped in to emphasize the waist. That makes for a coquettish come-on—until an oversize, A-line poncho in cotton and nylon goes billowing over the top.
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Resort 2012
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Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg Diesel Black Gold DKNY Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio Frank Tell -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jen Kao Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jonathan Saunders Joseph Juan Carlos Obando Just Cavalli -
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