If you had any question that Olivier Theyskens, late of Nina Ricci and Rochas, is digging his gig at Theory and his new life in New York, one look at him at his Meatpacking District studio would've convinced you that he's very happy indeed. The Belgian designer was sporting a neon pink T-shirt and royal blue jeans the same color as his lace-up shoes. That sunny sense of optimism was reflected in the clothes, which were more colorful than the ones he put on his first-ever runway for Theyskens' Theory back in February, but just as cool.

Leave it to Theyskens to give acid wash a new lease on life. His denim pieces had a slouchy, 1980's sensibility, as in the acid yellow shorts a model wore with a white shirt and a mélange knit linen sweater, or the baggy red jeans the designer paired with an ombré button-down and a bouclé blazer with a U-shaped cutaway on the back. Just like it sounds, quirky tailoring played a big part in the collection. The goal of the cutaways and collar slits, he explained, was to give jackets the ease of a cardigan without losing a shred of their edgy elegance.

Breezy bias-cut dresses in delicate prints inspired by the work of painter James Ensor aren't necessarily oozing edge, but add one of Theyskens' cropped and fitted leather perfecto jackets and voilà.