June 08, 2011 New York
Leave it to Theyskens to give acid wash a new lease on life. His denim pieces had a slouchy, 1980's sensibility, as in the acid yellow shorts a model wore with a white shirt and a mélange knit linen sweater, or the baggy red jeans the designer paired with an ombré button-down and a bouclé blazer with a U-shaped cutaway on the back. Just like it sounds, quirky tailoring played a big part in the collection. The goal of the cutaways and collar slits, he explained, was to give jackets the ease of a cardigan without losing a shred of their edgy elegance.
Breezy bias-cut dresses in delicate prints inspired by the work of painter James Ensor aren't necessarily oozing edge, but add one of Theyskens' cropped and fitted leather perfecto jackets and voilà.