Giles Deacon bid adieu to Fall's sexpot with a cheery Resort collection that played not only to his strengths (the fluorescent Stabilo shades, as in Stabilo markers; the slightly kooky Finding Nemo-meets-LeRoy Grannis print), but also to the Emanuel Ungaro brand. Color and print, of course, were two of Monsieur Ungaro's signatures. Drape was the other big one, so you'll find plenty of fluid dresses here. A long blue number in modal jersey bisected by a fuchsia belt felt as gorgeous as it looked.

It takes more than heritage, though, to push a brand forward today, so Deacon spent equal effort trying to expand the house's vocabulary. A day dress in a yellow jacquard had an efficient, modern sensibility, and pants in the same bright fabric looked cool worn with a marinière-stripe tunic trimmed in highlighter pink. Balancing out all that color were hits of army green, but let's face it, this is a designer who does irrepressible best. If it's daywear you're after from the new Emanuel Ungaro label, a pair of not-your-standard-issue trenches in that jacquard and a pink and blue mini-bubble print are your best bet.