Is there a designer on the planet who hasn't heeded the siren call of the sea when the Resort season rolls around? Well, now you can add Stefano Pilati to the list. With the film director Kathryn Bigelow and the ballet choreographer and new face of YSL's Homme Libre fragrance Benjamin Millepied looking on from the front row, Pilati sent out a cruise collection that was as croisière as it gets, complete with lanyard necklaces, rope-print dresses, and sailor jackets and pants. Afterward, the designer pointed out that Yves Saint Laurent did a nautical collection of his own around 1982. "He showed it with sheer stockings and pumps, and I loved the 'why not?' factor," Pilati said. Sheer hose and pumps were out for 2012, though, and bared legs and high wooden wedges that had commercial hit written all over them were in.

The anchor motif, on the other hand, threatened to weigh down a collection that otherwise delivered plenty of signature Pilati oomph and sophistication via puff-sleeved blouses, high-waisted flaring pants, easy dresses with billowing volumes at the back, and one sharp red trench. The poppy prints were more subtle, and the breezy gowns that closed the show will find customers both seaside and in the city.